Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - November 1820 Ladies' Monthly Museum
We must again resort to Brigton, Cheltenham, &c. &c. for the changes which have taken place, or rather, which are taking place in fashionable costume. Walking-dress has assumed, in general, a much warmer appearance; but for a carriage, or for the fashionable promenade on a fine day, silk pelisses are still worn; and notwithstanding their light appearance, they are, from being wadded, a very comfortable garb.
Mulin is partially worn in morning-dress; but tabbinets, lustres, and coloured bombazines, are in greater estimation. The latter we think are more so than they have been for some years. We have just been favoured by a house in Bond-street, with the sight of a morning-dress made of this material, and as we consider it a remarkably tasteful dishabille, we shall endeavour to describe it to our fair readers.
The colour is between a ponceau and a ruby, but is neither so dark as the first nor so nright as the last, but may be said to partake in some degree of both. The skirt is gored and full, and is finished at the bottom by a deep pointed flounce of the same material, edged with velvet to correspond, surmounted by a fulness of bombazine interspersed with oak-leaves composed of velvet. The body is tight to the shape, and the waist is long; the gown laces behind, and the back is something narrower than they have recently been made, particularly at the bottom. The shape is formed by a cestus of the same material, edged with velvet, which is of moderate breadth round the waist, except in front, where it slopes up in the Grecian style; it is likewise pointed at the bottom, and fastens in front with small silk buttons. The sleeve is long and moderately wide, and is ornamented at the bottom by a fulness mixed with leaves to correspond with the skirt; the half-sleeve is in the same style, but broader. The collar, which is very high, and stands out a good deal from the throat, also corresponds with the trimming.
The materials for dinner dress, are poplin, sarsenet, and gros de Naples, which is more than either of the others. Dinner gowns are always cut low, and the sleeves are worn very short and full. There is little alteration in trimmings; indeed, the only perceptible difference is that they are not worn so high as they have been of late. Gauze is still partially used; but velvet and satin are more in favour. Bodies, composed of a mixture of these two materials, are sometimes worn in full dress with a white satin skirt; the velvet is always of some very full colour, as ponceau, purple, dark green, &c. but the satin is white, to correspond with the skirt. The bust and the waist are trimmed with white blond lace. The sleeve is, like the body, a mixture of satin and velvet; the former is always full, and disposed either in puffs or draperies.
Caps in half dress, and toques in full dress, are beginning to come very much into favour; the former are always of a simple form, with low cauls, and either of a round or demi cornette shape; and are trimmed with winter flowers; the latter are always adorned with feathers. Fashionable colours are - bright rose-colour, dark slate-colour, deep-lavender, mazarine-blue, purple, pouceau, and ruby of different shades.