tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74214210269486547812024-03-13T06:38:58.977-04:00Regency Era Clothing1800 - 1820 Regency Era FashionsSandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.comBlogger69125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-28589149042388469342013-07-14T20:27:00.001-04:002013-07-14T20:27:20.499-04:00Regency Era Fashion Plates - May 1809 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Plates - May 1809 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
Fashions for Ladies and Gentlemen<br />
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<span lang="EN"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVW3fQcx66dLEKooCG68Aj6KQExNCN2zhO26iULEchAkjIcTQ55c8lsdGX0XL33pVQjH456ajHahixG1cv0wOZU30ooptQamnmIanmkMpR2ny_IH6GSUsdrSkqioWqx6Zzd95hj7_ixs/s1600/1809-05+ackermans+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVW3fQcx66dLEKooCG68Aj6KQExNCN2zhO26iULEchAkjIcTQ55c8lsdGX0XL33pVQjH456ajHahixG1cv0wOZU30ooptQamnmIanmkMpR2ny_IH6GSUsdrSkqioWqx6Zzd95hj7_ixs/s320/1809-05+ackermans+1.jpg" width="159" /></a></span></div>
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<span lang="EN">Ball Dress - White satin slip, under a crape dress, made to fit the figure very exactly, cut open in front, and bound all round with white satin ribbon and a row of beads, linked together in front with bands of beads loosely suspended at distances; short sleeves the same. Fan richly spangled. Pearl necklace, with diamond clasp in front; ear-rings and bracelets to suit. White shoes striped in scarlet or blue. Hair in ringlets on the forehead, and lightly turned up behind with a diamond comb. Petticoats very short.<br />
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<span lang="EN">Walking Dress - Dres of white Scotia washing silk. Bishop's mantle of sage or olive-green striped and plain silks, made entirely without seams; border of the same colour. Hat to correspond, and decorated with artificial flowers. Shoes sage or olive-green, also to correspond.</span></span></span><br />Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-20020858386305476132013-04-26T19:54:00.001-04:002013-04-26T19:54:14.564-04:00Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1819 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1819 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
French Female Fashions<br />
<br />
Paris, Jan. 20<br />
<br />
My dear Sophia,<br />
<br />
I must begin by wishing you, and the dear little circle whom you amuse with my letters, a happy new year. I wished for you incessantly on the new-year's day, and am certain you would have been highly amused by a visit to the shops of Paris, which displayed on that day every possible temptation to the buyers of new-year's gifts; and every Parisian, even those I am told of the lower ranks, is on that day a purchaser. I believe indeed that there is no country in the world where the coming in of the year is welcomed with more pleasure: it is the business of the day to visit and congratulate one's friends, and to purchase little remembrances for them; and these are offered with a grace and cordiality which you cannot help being delighted with. But in panegyrising the French, whom you do not care a straw about, you will think I forget the fashions, which you are dying to hear. Patience, ma belle, I am going to begin.<br />
<br />
Our promenade dresses are now mostly composed of levantine. Velvet spencers have disappeared, and cloth dresses are no longer to be seen. Round dresses and redingotes of levantine, and pelisses of white satin, are universally adopted by all tonish elegantes. Round dresses are made extremely plain; the skirts, I think, increase a little in width, and the waists are something longer. The body is made up to the throat; it fastens behind, is tight to the shape, and generally ornamented with a pelerine. Plain long sleeve, made rather loose; it falls considerably over the hand, and is confined by a narrow band at the wrist. The only trimming worn with these dresses, is a plain band of satin of the same colour, which goes round the bottom of the skirt, and a little edging of satin to the sleeves.<br />
<br />
Redingotes, which you would suppose from the name were a travelling dress, are in reality pelisses; they are lined with white sarsnet, and are sometimes wadded. The most fashionable at present are very much gored, so that there is scarcely any fulness in the skirt at the waist; it is ornamented from the waist to the feet with bows of satin, to correspond in colour with the redingote. The body is made tight to the shape; the fore parts wrap across, and there is a very small standing collar, to which a deep lace ruff is affixed. There is usually a full sleeve of satin, confined down the arm by narrow bands of levantine; and the bottom of the long sleeve is finished either by a narrow trimming of satin, or a full quilling of blond net.<br />
<br />
The white satin pelisses are exceedingly elegant, but in appearance much too light for the time of year: they are lined with white sarsnet, generally wadded, and made in the form of a loose great-coat; the sleeves are exceedingly large; the fronts wrap over very much, and there is a high collar. A broad rich trimming of swansdown goes entirely round the pelisse, and edges the bottoms of the long sleeves.<br />
<br />
Now for head-dresses, which have decreased so much in size since I wrote last, that I should not wonder in a few months more if our bonnets were to become as preposterously small as they have hitherto been large. At present they are of a moderate and very becoming size; hats in particular are very jauntee. The materials most fashionable are, down, satin, beaver, velvet, and pluche. The crowns both of hats and bonnets are always very low; the brims of the latter are variously ornamented. Some have spaces cut round the brim, through which a roll of satin or crape is passed: others are finished with a double pointed lace, disposed in very full plaits; between this double row of lace is a wreath of roses, which is partially seen: many have the satin lining of the inside turned up round the edge of the brim, and cut in points; others have a flat feather trimming, passed through spaces in the same manner as the roll of which I have just spoken; and some bonnets, particularly beaver, have no trimming round the edge at all. The most stylish of these latter are ornamented with gold bands and tassels. Satin hats have in general roses round the brim, and also round the top of the crown; the others are either ornamented with a full bow of ribbon, or else a large knot of hard-twisted silk, the ends of which have tassels like little bells. As to hats, they never have any ornament round the edge of the brim, which is always very small, and turned up at the sides. I have seen one this morning, the shape of which was a little outre, but yet rather becoming. There was scarcely any brim just over the forehead, but it was much broader at the sides; it turned up very little; the crown was very low, but the front of it was entirely concealed by ostrich feathers, of which there were three placed upright so as to droop in front, and three more put in a standing position so as to fall over the left side. Ostrich feathers are very generally used for hats, but not at all for bonnets.<br />
<br />
The prettiest dishabille I have seen is composed of white chintz, and worn with a petticoat of the same material; the trimming is a very full puffing of muslin, which is formed into scollops by little bows of narrow ribbon placed between each puff. The robe is made quite loose, with a falling collar, and this trimming goes all round it; it is confined to the waist by a sash of broad ribbon. The sleeve is very long and loose. The bottom of the petticoat is trimmed to correspond.<br />
<br />
The morning cornette now forms a very expensive part of the dress of a tonish elegante, from the costly lace with which it is trimmed: it is composed of fine muslin, and has a small dome crown; the front of the head-piece is ornamented with four rows of beautiful narrow lace, which come no further than the cheek: the lower part has only a single row, which goes all round. These expensive little caps are sometimes worn under a small hat for the morning promenade; and when that is the case, the hat is put very far back, to display the beautiful lace border.<br />
<br />
Coloured satins and spotted silks are a good deal worn in dinner dress. Gowns are cut rather high round the bust, so as to display only a little of the upper part of it: the trimmings most in favour are, only a single row of broad silk fringe, which in general is of the same colour as the dress, or else three rows of blond lace set on at a little distance from each other, and tacked in such a manner as to give each flounce the appearance of a slight wave. Sleeves are always short, and there is mostly a white satin undr-sleeve, confined to the arm by a band; it is but just visible under the loose short half-sleeve of the same material as the dress.<br />
<br />
For grand costume, white crape is at present in considerable estimation; but velvet robes, which are worn open in front, over white satin petticoats, are equally tonish, and certainly for more appropriate to the time of year. These robes are cut low round the bust, have very short sleeves, and are trimmed either with swansdown or narrow gold cord: they have a narrow band of satin round the waist, which fastens in front with a clasp of diamonds, pearls, or coloured stones.<br />
<br />
Toques and turbans are the usual head-dresses in full dress. Toque hats are still worn by a few elegantes, but one sees thm very seldom. A little while ago no lady was dressed without a white British lace veil, which was thrown carelessly over the back of her head: a fortnight ago this fashion was universal, now it is nearly exploded.<br />
<br />
The turbans most in favour are composed of fine India muslin chequered with gold; they are of a shape a little resembling the Chinese, but more becoming; there is a good deal of gold cord twisted through the muslin: a large knot of this cord, to which a pair of tassels is affixed, is placed to the left side.<br />
<br />
Nothing can be more unbecoming than the style in which toques are made. I mentioned to you, I believe, in my last, that they were peaked at the ears as well as in the middle of the forehead. At that time the peak in the forehead was the deepest; now those of the ears are preposterously long, and encroach also on the cheeks. As you know that softness is by no means a general characteristic of the French belles, I leave you to judge what an unbecoming and even fierce effect these disfiguring head-dresses must have upon their features: they are now in universal request, but I suppose in a week or two they will give place to something else.<br />
<br />
I had almost forgot to mention to you a new fashion, and one which is eagerly adopted: I mean les evantails a surprise, which ought rather to be called the changeable fans. They are composed of crape, which is cut to resemble lace, and spangled: in the middle of the fan is a small picture, which may be varied so as to show four subjects, two on each side. These toys afford a pretty Frenchwoman an opportunity, which she knows how to use, to display all her graces to the utmost advantage. The play of her countenance, the easy eloquence of her motions, the many retty things she has to say on each of the different subjects which the fan presents, all combine to render her for the moment an attractive, and even dangerous, object to s susceptible heart. But these changeable fans, and my eternal habit of digressing, have scarcely left me room to tell you, that the colours most in favour are, celestial blue, slate-colour, deep rose-colour, fawn, and ponceau. Nothing, however, is more fashionable than white.<br />
<br />
Adieu! Believe me unchangeably your,<br />
<br />
Eudocia.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-46715833225693805832013-04-20T18:06:00.001-04:002013-04-20T18:06:53.864-04:00Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1819 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1819 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
General Observations on Fashion and Dress<br />
<br />
Till the mourning has actually expired, it will be difficult to ascertain precisely the fashion by which it will be succeeded. We have availed ourselves of our numerous opportunities of seeing dresses which are in preparation for ladies of distinction; and we shall present our fair subscribers with descriptions of such of them as are most remarkable for elegance and taste.<br />
<br />
First for the promeande, or rather, we should say, carriage or dress promenade costume, for mere walking dress does not at present afford any novelty; the most elegant, next to the one which we have given in our print, is a pelisse of ruby-coloured velvet, lined with rich white sarsnet, and trimmed with a mixture of swansdown and satin. The body of this pelisse is made rather longer in the waist than we have recently seen them. The skirt is of a moderate width, and there is a good deal of fulness about the hips. The shape of the back is formed by a double row of small silk tufts placed on each side: the collar stands up very high round the throat; it is lined with white satin, and edged with swansdown: the satin is disposed in plaits, which are at some distance from each toher; they are reversed at regular distances, and tacked down with ruby-coloured chenille. The sleeve is of a moderate width, but so long as to cover more than half the hand: the bottom of it is finished with swansdown. The shoulder is ornamented with a small epaulette, which corresponds with the collar. The trimming, which goes all round the pelisse, is similar, except that it is edged on both sides with swansdown. We should observe, that the pelisse just meets in front: it is, we think, one of the prettiest and most novel that we have seen; it is striking without being gaudy, and is made in a manner exceedingly advantageous to the display of the shape.<br />
<br />
We have noticed several morning dresses in tabbinet: this material promises to be very fashionable for undress. One of the prettiest of these gowns was an open robe, of a dark sea-green colour; the bottom of the skirt was vandyked with bright green silk pluche; the points of the vandykes were turned upward, and each of them was finished by a very narrow puffing of gauze, to correspond in colour with the pluche. The fronts just meet; they are fastened on the inside, and were ornamented up to the bust with rosettes of bright green satin. The body was made up to the throat, with a very small collar, which stood out from the neck: the fronts fitted the shape, but the back was quite loose; it was confined at the bottom by a girdle, or rather, we should say, a half-girdle, composed of pluche, which was tacked on at each side close to the hip, and fastened with three small silk buttons in the middle of the back: the bottom of this girdle was cut in pointed tabs, which were progressively deeper as they approached the back; it had consequently the appearance of a little smart jacket. Long sleeve of a moderate fulness: the shoulder and the bottom of the sleeve were ornamented with pointed pluche, and the collar was lined with the same material. This is an elegant and ladylike morning dress.<br />
<br />
Poplins and lutestrings are the materials most likely to be in estimation for dinner gowns. Those that we have seen afforded very little novelty; they were in general made low round the bust, tight to the shape, and with short sleeves. In a few instances there was a piece of net, or gauze, disposed in folds, which was tacked to the inside of the dress in such a manner as to come pretty high over the front of the bust: they had a neat and modest effect. The trimmings of dinner gowns do not afford any variety worth mentioning: invention in this respect seems to have completely stood still. Gauze or net disposed in ruches, puffings, or rouleaus, or else deep flounces of blond lace, are the only trimmings we have seen, except the folds of satin and net intermingled, which we mentioned some time ago, and which seem likely still to continue fashionable.<br />
<br />
Full dress is a good deal made in white satin. We have given one of the most elegant that has fallen under our observation. We have seen another, which is also striking and tasteful: it is white satin, finished with a deep flounce of blond lace, which is headed by a ruche of white and ruby-coloured net, fancifully intermingled. A ruby-coloured velvet corsage is put on over the satin one: only a little of the front of the latter is seen; the form meets just in front, where it is fastened by a pearl clasp of the shape of a heart; the fronts are sloped on each side, and it is trimmed round the bust with narrow blond lace, which stands up. The sleeve, which is very short, is a double fall of blond lace over white satin; each fall is looped up with pearl ornaments to correspond with the clasp, but of a smaller size. This is a remarkably rich and elegant dress; it is also very appropriate to the season.<br />
<br />
We have seen a number of toques, turbans, and dress caps, which have been prepared against the termination of the mourning. The former are always of a very moderate height: the most elegant, in our opinion, are composed of white satin and gauze, or plain white satin. There are others made either in coloured gauze, or a mixture of coloured satin with white gauze: when these are worn with a dress to correspond in colour, they look very well, but they are by no means elegant with a white dress. Turbans are in general of the Turkish form, and, as well as toques, are ornamented with ostrich feathers. We have seen some in silver gauze, decorated with bunches of silver wheat-ears: they had an elegant effect.<br />
<br />
The dress caps which we have seen were all of a round shape, with low crowns. The prettiest are te beef-eater crowns, composed of rich letting-in lace, quartered with white satin; the satin is finished round with a fine narrow lace set on full; there is a double lace border, very full, particularly over the forehead, and a bunch of flowers placed to one side.<br />
<br />
We have seen several full dress ornaments for the hair composed of gold and pearl; they are of a diadem shape. Flowers, disposed in a similar manner, promise also to be much in request. We have seen some wreaths of leaves both in pearls and emeralds; the latter have a beautiful effect upon fair hair.<br />
<br />
The colours which appear most likely to be in favour are, bright and dark green, ruby, French rose-colour, pale brown, fawn-colour, azure, and French grey.<br />
<br />
A corset which has just been submitted to our inspection, appears to us worthy of the attention of our fair subscribers: it is contrived to support, without compressing, the shape, which it displays to very great advantage, by the manner in which it is cut: it is called the Athenian corset.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-30486118029846255952013-03-24T12:41:00.004-04:002013-03-24T12:41:32.688-04:00Regency Era Fashion Plates - February 1819 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Plates - February 1819 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
London Fashions<br />
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<span lang="EN">Walking Dress - A high dress composed of French grey Circassian cloth: the bottom of the skirt is ornamented with bands of white lutestring, edged with cord the colour of the dress, which forms lozenges; each lozenge is ornamented at the top and bottom with a white lutestring rose, the heart of which is very much seen: it is formed of hard-twisted silk, and this gives the flower a rich and novel appearance. The body is made up to the throat, but without a collar; it is ornamented round the top of the bust with a light silk trimming; both the back and front are full, but the Athenian braces, which are worn with it, confine it to the shape. For the form of these braces, which are peculiarly advantageous to the figure, we refer to our print: they are composed of white lutestring, and have a very full epaulette of the same material. The dress has a plain long sleeve, the bottom of which is tastefully finished to correspond with the epaulette. The head-dress is a French walking hat, in shape something similar to a gentleman's: it is composed of plain straw-coloured silk pluche, and lined with slate-coloured satin; the crown is oval, and of a moderate height; the brim is rather large, but is formed into an oval shape by being turned up in a soft roll on each side. The edge of the brim is richly ornamented with slate-coloured satin, twisted to form what the French call a torsade. A long plume of white ostrich feathers, the edges of which are curled, is placed on one side. French grey gloves. Half-boots, the upper part French grey silk, the lower part black leather. A large India scarf is thrown over the shoulders. This dress is worn in carriage costume as well as for elegant promenade dress.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN">Evening Dress - A round dress composed of white satin: the skirt falls in easy folds round the figure; the bottom of it is richly trimmed with a double ruche of white net, over which is a beautiful wreath of white net roses intermixed with large velvet leaves: this is surmounted by a net ruche to correspond with the bottom. The body is cut low round the bust, but so as to shade the bosom in a very decorous manner; it is trimmed with lace tabs. The bottom of the waist is ornamented to correspond. A very short lace sleeve, made full: the body is contrived in a very novel way, so as to form a part of the sleeve. The head-dress is a low white satin toque, ornamented in front with white roses, which are surmounted by a plume of ostrich feathers: it is tied under the chin by a row of pearls, finished by pearl tassels. </span><br />
<span lang="EN">We are indebted to Mrs. Smith, 15, Old Burlington-street, for both these dresses.</span></span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-37375880829026718462013-02-17T11:23:00.005-05:002013-02-17T11:23:44.162-05:00Regency Era Fashion Plates - June 1812 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Plates - June 1812 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
Fashions for Ladies<br />
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<span lang="EN">Promenade or Walking Dress - A round robe of jaconot or fine cambric muslin, with long sleeve and high waist, with fan ruff of lace, ornamented up the front with borders of needle-work or lace, and finished at the feet with ball fringe. A Spanish hussar cloak of deep amber sarsnet, lined with sea green or white, and trimmed with broad thread lace, put on very full. Hair disposed in bands and waved curls; a large square veil of white lace, throan over the head and shading the face. Half-boots amber-coloured kid, and gloves a pale primrose. Small French caps of lace, ornamented with a small cluster of spring flowers, on one side, are often seen in this style of costume, and have an appropriate and pretty effect beneath the long veil.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN">Morning or Domestic Costume - A plain muslin or cambric round robe, trimmed round the throat with net lace, or rolls of muslin. A loose Circassian pelisse of cerulean blue sarsnet, with low curved bosom; epaulet and cuffs of antique lace, and the skirt trimmed entirely round with a fancy floss fringe or gimp, and confined at the bottom of the waist with a ribbon, tied with short bows and ends in front. A foundling mob cap, composed of lace, and ribbon the colour of the pelisse. A small sprig of geranium placed in the hair on the left side. Spanish slippers of cerulean blue kid, and gloves of a lemon colour or pale tan. Prevailing colours are, primrose, lilac, or blossom colour, and pale pink.</span><br /></span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-19690523224712378122013-01-06T14:02:00.001-05:002013-01-06T14:02:11.578-05:00Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1820 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1820 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
French Female Fashions<br />
<br />
My dear Sophia,<br />
<br />
Since I wrote last, cambric muslin dresses have become more generally fashionable for the promenade than those of any other material: silk and French cachemire are, however, still fashionable; but they are more worn in dinner or evening, then in promenade dress. Promenade gowns have not altered much in the form; waists are still very long, sleeves are very tight to the arm, and the skirts of dresses are, I think, more scanty then they have recently been. Dresses are once more trimmed almost to the knee: there is very little variety in the style of trimming, flounces or deep tucks being the only ornaments of dresses: if the former, they are narrow, and are placed three together, and almost close to one another at the bottom of the skirt: this triple flounce is surmounted by two or three deep tucks, and another flounce to correspond, and over that are tucks and a third flounce. If the dress is ornamented with tucks only, there are sometimes eighteen or twenty of them. Sometimes the bottom of the dress is ornamented with a single deep flounce, over which tucks on tucks arise half way at least up the skirt. This ridiculous fashion has been, as you know, several times revived within the last few years, but I do not think it ever was carried to such an excess as at present.<br />
<br />
The bodies of gowns are in general made tight to the shape: I have observed, however, within the last few days, several high gowns with tucked bodies, and others in which the corsage had a little fulness; but I will speak of them presently, because, though worn for the promenade, they also form the morning dress. Out-door covering is now light, and appropriate to the season; spencers, sautoirs, and canezoux being all equally fashionable. This last part of out-door dress will surprise you, because I dare say you will recollect, that formerly we gave that appellation to little silk bodies which were worn in full dress; now we give it to what you, I think, would call a spenceret; that is, a silk body made partially high, and with short sleeves, which are very full, and are composed in general of a mixture of satin and blond: it laces behind, and is usually finished by a deep fall of blond at the bottom of the waist.<br />
<br />
Sautoirs are composed either of French cachemire or net silk. PLaid gauze cravats with satin stripes, which are rather long, and are tied coquettishly on one side, are worn by some belles instead of sautoirs; but the latter are upon the whole more fashionable.<br />
<br />
The only alteration in the form of spencers is, that they now begin to be peaked before; in other respects, they are made and trimmed as I described to you last month.<br />
<br />
We still continue to wear large bonnets for the promenade. White straw, or white paille-coton, is at present more fashionable than any thing else; but gauze and crape are still worn; and gros de Naples, finished at the edge of the brim with straw intermixed with artificial flowers, is beginning to come very much into favour. I think bonnets are a little smaller than they were last month, but the difference in that respect is very trifling. Some bonnets are now bent a little on one side, in such a manner as that one part of the brim may sit rather close to the face, while the other part stands out very much from it. There is something so whimsically coquettish in this fashion, that one could think it was first introduced for the sake of displaying a pretty side-face. This kind of brim is confined to straw or paille-coton chapeaux; those made of other materials have the brim closer to the face than last month.<br />
<br />
Chapeaux are so variously ornamented, that one would be puzzled to tell what style of trimming is most fashionable. The crowns, which are high, and either round or of a dome shape, are decorated either with flowers or feathers: in some instances, with a mixture of both; in others, with flowers and ribbons. Some have a large bunch of flowers placed in front, or a little on one side of the crown; the stalks of the flowers are inserted in a band composed of coques of ribbon: others have a bunch of flowers placed in such a manner as partly to stand up in front of the crown, and partly to droop over the brim. Half-wreaths, composed of various grasses mingled with heath-flowers, are also disposed in this way. Those that are adorned with feathers and flowers, have a plume of Marabouts, to the middle of each of which is attached a bunch of lilac. Many are ornamented only with a bunch of different kinds of wheat, fastened by a knot of satin, in such a manner that one half of the bunch stands up in front of the crown, and the other half falls on one side of the brim. A good many hats have a wreath of Provence roses, mingled with wild flowers and ears of wheat; and others have a garland composed of different kinds of flowers, so large that it nearly covers the whole front of the crown.<br />
<br />
So much for chapeaux, me thinks I hear you say. Softly, my dear Sophia, we have but half done yet: we must now speak of the decorations of the brims, a matter of no small consequence, I assure you, in the opinion of the fair Parisian fashionable. Besides the quantity of trimming which I described to you in my last, and which still continues to be worn by some elegantes, there are three or four other trimmings in favour, which I will endeavour to describe to you as well as I can.<br />
<br />
The most fashionable is, a fulness of gauze interspersed with loops of ribbon: each loop is ornamented with two ends; one stands up on the edge of the brim, the other hangs over the edge: next to this in favour is a plaiting of spotted, shaded, or mosaic gauze ribbon; this is formed in large hollow plaits, and there are often three rows one over the other; this triple plaiting is also worn in plain gauze, and in blond. Satin rouleaus, with rows of blond between, are also partially in estimation, as are also plain broad bands of satin.<br />
<br />
I was interrupted by a visit from the three Misses S---, each of whom had on a bonnet differing from any that I have seen, and very well worth your attention. Miss S----'s was of white gauze; there was nothing peculiar in the shape, but the brim was covered with a white gauze drapery, disposed in deep folds; this drapery was edged with three very narrow rouleaus of lilac satin, and between each of the folds a bunch of lilac was partially visible. The crown was oval; the top of it was decorated with three satin rouleaus, to correspond with the brim; a full bunch of lilacs was placed on one side of the crown; a band of ribbon, to correspond, encircled the bottom of it, and a broad lilac ribbon passed under the chin, and tied in a bow at the left side.<br />
<br />
Charlotte S. the second sister, had a bonnet composed of white crape over white satin; the crown was low, and of a dome shape; it was adorned round the top by two rows of white satin coquings; a twisted roll of lilacs and white satin surrounded the bottom of the crown, and also ornamented the edge of the brim; it was finished by white strings, which tied in a full bow under the chin. I am certain you would like this bonnet; it is, in my opinion, the most tastefully simple head-dress that I have seen for a length of time.<br />
<br />
The youngest of the sisters had a chapeau of white gros de Naples; the crown of a dome form, but high, and rather raised in the top; the middle of the crown was decorated with straw points, edged with satin; they are placed perpendicularly, and a bunch of rose-buds was partially seen between each point; the edge of the brim was finished to correspond with the crown, except the hind part, which was deep and square, and ornamented only with a rouleau of satin. I should have observed to you, that the satin which edges the points is pink; this rouleau corresponds: rich white strings tie it under the chin.<br />
<br />
Morning dress is always composed of cambric muslin; in some instances, the body is entirely covered with tucks, which are either large or small according to the fancy of the wearer: the tucks are run straight and lengthwise; the sleeves are tucked across. Dresses are now made without collars; their place is supplied by ruffs, which are open in front, or sautoirs, tied carelessly in such a manner as to display a little of the throat. Aprons continue to be worn, but only partially. I have no occasion to speak to you of trimmings, as I have already mentioned them in the promenade costume.<br />
<br />
Dinner gowns are now in general cut low; we see a good many in perkale, but a greater number in silk or French cachemire. White is considered most fashionable; rose-colour is next in estimation. We see sometimes a few lilac and citron dresses; but in general out tonish elegantes confine themselves to white or rose-colour.<br />
<br />
Many dinner, and almost all full-dress gowns, are now peaked in front: this fashion, preposterous and unbecoming as it formerly was, when the waist of the dress was made to the length of the natural waist, is now ten times more so, because the body of the gown being still something shorter than the natural waist, it absolutely destroys the symmetry of the figure. The robes a la Sevigne which I recollect to have formerly described to you, and those made en coeur, are most fashionable both in dinner and full dress. The robe en coeur is pretty, and when worn without a peak, is very becoming to the shape. The back of the corsage is tight to the figure; the front slopes down gradually on each side of a stomacher in the shape of a heart; the stomacher is let in full to the dress, but the fulness is confined in the middle by a band consisting of three narrow folds, of the same material as the dress, which, I should mention, laces behind. A very broad sash, with short bows and ends, which reach below the knee, ties at one side. The sleeves are very short and full; they are confined to the arm by a narrow band of the same material as the dress, beneath which is in general a very full roll of white satin.<br />
<br />
Gauze and white satin are very fashionable in full dress; and flowers are a good deal used for trimmings, not more so, however, than flounces or tucks: the former are principally employed to decorate satin dresses, and are either of blond, lace, or gauze; they are put on in a similar style to those I described to you in speaking of promenade dress; the tucks are always of white satin.<br />
<br />
Our mania for flowers has abated a little; some, even youthful belles, are now seen in toques and dress hats; the former are composed of gauze with a mixture of satin, or satin and blond; they have, what we call, a good deal of drapery; that is, the materials of which they are composed are set on very full: they are low, and are ornamented either with down feathers or flowers; if the former, the band which encircles the bottom of the toque, is usually mixed with pearl; if the latter, it is plain or wrought silk.<br />
<br />
Dress hats are made with very small brims, in the Mary of Scotland style; they are composed of gauze, tulle, or white satin, and always adorned with down feathers.<br />
<br />
Fashionable colours are the same as last month, with the exception of ponceau, which is not worn. Flowers also continue the same, but we have added to them the rhododendron, the snuff-flower, and the lilac; the last is particularly fashionable.<br />
<br />
I meant to begin my letter by scolding you for being so idle: your letters are so short, that you really do not deserve the pains I take in recording for you, with scrupulous accuracy, the changes of the fickle deity Fashion. Remember, I give you notice, that if you do not mend, you will lose the services of your Eudocia.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-61732105651184190492012-12-28T21:14:00.001-05:002012-12-28T21:14:50.170-05:00Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1820 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1820 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
General Observations on Fashion and Dress<br />
<br />
Promenade costume has not been for several seasons more gay, more striking, nor, as far as respects the materials, more varied than at present. Rich silk pelisses, worn over cambric muslin or sarsnet dresses, and made in a very plain style, are much in favour for what may be termed plain walking dress; as are also sarsnet high dresses made in the habit style: these last are sometimes worn with a light silk scarf, sometimes without. The trimmings of these dresses are of satin or braiding, but they afford no novelty worth describing.<br />
<br />
Leghorn bonnets, trimmed with ribbons only, are very generally worn in this plain style of promenade dress; these bonnets, and indeed all other fashionable ones, are very large: the only alteration we perceive in their shape is, that the crowns are something lower; but then, as if to make amends for this little reduction in height, the brims are in general a little deeper than they have been for the last two months. All fashionable ribbons now are very broad and extremely rich; those that are figured seem most in favour.<br />
<br />
Silk pelisses are also a great deal worn in the dress promenade and carriage costume; they are made in a very tasteful style, and much trimmed. We have presented our readers with one of the most fashionable in our print. There is no variety in the form of pelisses; they are all made in one style, but there is a good deal of difference in the manner in which they are trimmed. Many are ornamented with very narrow white satin rouleaus, disposed in waves; there are sometimes five or six of these rouleaus in number: others are trimmed with an intermixture of satin and gauze, to correspond in colour with the pelisse; and we have seen a few ornamented with a trimming of a shell pattern, formed of satin to correspond with the pelisse, but of various shades: this last trimming is usually made very broad, and has a striking effect. We observe that pelisses are in general trimmed all round; and the collar, cuffs, and epaulettes, usually correspond.<br />
<br />
Clear muslin and british net pelisses, lined with coloured sarsnet, begin to be a good deal worn: these pelisses are trimmed with lace in general. We noticed one the other day, of a novel and tasteful description: the trimming consisted of a single fall of broad lace, disposed in a zig-zag manner round the bottom of the pelisse; this flounce was headed by a corkscrew roll of satin, and between each of the waves formed by the zig-zag, was a letting-in of lace, in the shape of a large leaf. A lace pelerine, with long ends, which crossed in front, and fastened in the middle of the back with a large bow of ribbon, almost concealed the body of the pelisse; and as it was very full trimmed with lace, and fell a little over the shoulders, it formed a substitute for half-sleeves. The long sleeve, which was rather wide, was terminated by three falls of narrow lace, each headed by a corkscrew roll of ribbon. The pelisse was of clear muslin; the lining pale rose-colour, and the ribbon to correspond.<br />
<br />
Spencers are worn, but less generally than they have been, and we observe no novelty in their form.<br />
<br />
Transparent and half-transparent (if we may be allowed the expression) bonnets are very much in favour. The first are made in white lace, British net, and different sorts of gauze; they are made, as we before observed, with low crowns, large brims, and to stand out a good deal from the face: those made in gauze are finished by a ruche of the same material round the edge of the brim; the others are ornamented either with blond or thread lace. Flowers, which are worn either in wreaths or bunches, always ornament the crowns. These bonnets have a very elegant appearance: we have noticed, that this season they are introduced unusually early.<br />
<br />
The half-transparent bonnets are of the same materials as the one given in our print: they are light, appropriate to the season, and perhaps better suited to our climate than those of a thinner texture; they are likewise always adorned with flowers.<br />
<br />
Muslin is the only thing worn in dishabille: jaconot is rather more in favour than cambric muslin, but the latter is fashionable. Robes and round dresses are equally in request; the latter are very moderately trimmed. Robes are made in a more tasteful style: the one described as the under-dress worn with the pelisse in our print, is by much the most elegant novelty that we have seen for some time.<br />
<br />
Muslin now begins to be a great deal worn in dinner dress, but it is not yet so generally adopted as silk. Muslin dresses are in general trimmed with lace; and we observe with pleasure, that there is also a good deal of ribbon mixed with it: the encouragement of this branch of our manufactures is particularly desirable, from the number of hands to which it gives employment. One of the most tasteful dinner dresses that we have seen this month, is a frock, the body of which is of a decorous height: the back is composed of strips of muslin let in full and bias between letting-in lace; the front is a little full on each breast, but plain in the middle, which is formed of a demi-lozenge of letting-in lace, with the point downwards. Very short full sleeve, surmounted by three points, which hang loose, and are edged with lace. We should have observed, that the corsage is square round the bust, and ornamented by a narrow lace tucker, which stands up. The skirt is rather wide, and very much gored; the fulness is principally thrown behind: the trimming of the skirt consists of muslin edged with narrow satin ribbon, and quilled in those large hollow plaits which the French call wolves' mouths; the muslin is scolloped at the edge, and the trimming is laid on bias in rows, which are put pretty close to each other. This trimming is the broadest of the kind we have ever seen, being nearly three half-quarters deep; the effect is singular and exceeding pretty. A broad satin sash, disposed in folds round the waist, and fastened behind in a bow and short ends, which are fringed, completes the dress.<br />
<br />
Rich silks are now but partially worn in full dress, the favourite materials being white British lace, and white or coloured gauzes. We have seen in a few instances coloured satins made up for very matronly ladies. Several belles have adopted the peaked stomacher so fashionable at present in France: it is extremely unbecoming to the figure. Trimmings vary a good deal: flowers, blond, lace, satin mixed either with lace or gauze, and ribbon disposed in various ways, are all in favour: the pretty chain trimming mentioned in our last Number, is very much worn.<br />
<br />
We have nothing novel to describe in millinery; in fact, no ladies, except those very far advanced in life, cover their heads in full dress. The hair is dressed moderately high, and in various forms, but always in such a way as to display its luxuriance as much as possible: the front hair is disposed in very full curls on the temples. The head is ornamented either with feathers or flowers: pearls or diamonds are a good deal worn with the former; but we observe, that when the head-dress consists of flowers, there is now seldom any mixture of jewels. Wreaths and bunches of flowers are equally fashionable: the former are placed very far back on the head, and rather to one side; the latter are too large; they resemble the gardeners' nosegays worn in France, and when, as is often the case, they consist of a mixture of flowers badly contrasted, the effect is very inelegant. Exotics, fancy flowers, and all those of the season, are fashionable. Rose-colour, lilac, lavender, lemon-colour, green, and azure, are all in estimation.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-17365517492881769822012-12-13T20:07:00.000-05:002012-12-13T20:07:03.452-05:00Regency Era Fashion Plates - June 1820 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Plates - June 1820 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
London Fashions<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF00wl9dTbTgc8ujirIbHyu_5ONcmOMArLyTQTgw2GdwI7NvnPSTPVBf-OOrnclxS9wXDtsqO6gq5cRkRjLVc8KVwogi3bavfvbJmNnCbbQ5Sg6YRdf_WWyYDVDECs5bOurcv1wxuRENA/s1600/1820-06+Ackermans+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF00wl9dTbTgc8ujirIbHyu_5ONcmOMArLyTQTgw2GdwI7NvnPSTPVBf-OOrnclxS9wXDtsqO6gq5cRkRjLVc8KVwogi3bavfvbJmNnCbbQ5Sg6YRdf_WWyYDVDECs5bOurcv1wxuRENA/s320/1820-06+Ackermans+1.jpg" width="202" /></a><span lang="EN"></span></div>
Walking Dress - A high robe, composed of jaconot muslin: the body is plain; the waist long, and finished by a jacket, which terminates in three points; the jacket is edged with rich work; the body is made up to the throat, but without a collar; the fronts fold across, and are trimmed with puffings of net; a row of rich work surrounds the puffings on the side next to the shoulder, and a row of narrow lace edges them on that next to the bust. The skirt, which is open, is trimmed up the sides and round the bottom to correspond with the bust. The half-sleeves are of a similar description, but upon a larger scale; the long sleeve, which is of an easy fulness, is ornamented at the bottom to correspond with the trimming. The pelisse worn over this dress, is composed of lemon-coloured and white figured sarsnet, and lined with white sarsnet; the skirt is a good deal gored, and moderately full; the body is tight to the shape; the waist long, and ornamented by rosettes on the hips; the collar is of a new form, high, but not pointed behind, and very shallow towards the front; the sleeve is rather tight to the arm, and falls very far over the hand. The trimming goes entirely round the pelisse; it consists of a wreath, which we cannot call leaves, but which resemble them a little in form: the outside of each is composed of plain gros de Naples; the middle is filled up by a satin puff. This trimming has a singular but tasteful effect. Head-dress, a bonnet composed of white crape over net: the crown is low; the brim very large, and stands out a good deal from the face; it is edged with blond; the crown is ornamented with roses: a rich ribbon passes under the chin, and ties in a full bow on one side. Limeric gloves. Pale lemon-coloured kid half-boots.<br />
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<span lang="EN">Evening Dress - A round dress, composed of white figured lace over a white satin slip; the corsage is long in the waist, has a little fulness at the bottom of the back, and is cut moderately low round the bust, which is ornamented with a falling lace tucker. Short sleeves, composed of alternate puffings of pink gros de Naples and white lace; the puffings are placed crosswise, and there are three of each. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with two rows of white satin leaves placed perpendicularly; they are headed by a wreath of field-flowers. The hair is dressed in very full curls in front, drawn up behind in a full tuft on the crown of the head, and fastened with a jewelled comb. A plume of feathers, of a beautiful and novel description, is placed on one side of the head; they are ostrich, but the middle of each is covered with down: one feather is of uncommon length; the two others are shorter. Necklace and ear-rings, diamonds. White kid gloves, and white satin shoes.</span><br />
<span lang="EN">We are indebted to Miss Pierpoint, inventress of the corset a la Grecque, of No. 9, Henrietta-street, Covent-garden, for both these dresses.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-71671084281341402962012-12-07T19:12:00.000-05:002012-12-07T19:12:03.041-05:00Regency Era Fashion Plates - March 1814 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Plates - March 1814 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
Fashions for Ladies<br />
<br />
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<br />
<span lang="EN">Evening Dress<br />
<br />
A white crape, or fine muline petticoat, worn over white satin, embroidered in silver lama round the bottom. A bodice of olive, or spring-green satin, ornamented with a silver stomacher. Short, full sleeve, and rounded bosom, trimmed with a full silver border to correspond. A fan frill of fluted lace, continued round the back, and terminating in front at the corner of the bosom. A silver fringe round the bottom of the waist. The hair in irregular curls in front, falling low on each side, drawn smoothly on the crown of the head, and brought in a small bunch of curls at the back. A bandeau of pearl, twisted round the curls behind. Necklace and cross of pearl ear-drops, and bracelets to correspond. Occasional scarf of white silk, richly embroidered in silver and coloured silks. Gloves of white kid. Slipps of green satin, with silver rosettes.</span><br />
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<br />
<span lang="EN">Promenade or Carriage Costume<br />
<br />
A white cambric robe, with full long sleeves, unornamented at the feet. Deep doable Vandyke frill of lace, tied with a white cord and tassel at the throat; a deep Vandyke cuff of the same. The Austrian shawl cloak, composed of pale dove-coloured cloth, lined throughout with rose-coloured satin or sarsnet, trimmed entirely round with a broad, sable fur; a fancy cape or hood terminating in front of the bosom, and tied with a rose-coloured ribbon. A Circassian turban cap, composed of crimson velvet, ornamented with tufts of rose-coloured satin; a rich silk cord round the edge, terminated on one side with correspondent tassels. Hair in full curls on each side, much divided in front of the forehead. Half-boots of crimson velvet. Gloves of lemon-coloured kid, or pale tan colour.</span><br /></span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-22675481098193800782012-11-15T19:46:00.001-05:002012-11-15T19:46:35.902-05:00Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
French Female Fashions<br />
<br />
Paris, July 14, 1817<br />
<br />
My dear Sophia,<br />
<br />
You will receive this letter from the hands of Miss S. who has promised at my desire to visit and show you her purchases. You will not, however, be much gratified by the sight of anything but her bonnets, as she would not have her dresses made up. I shall endeavour to atone for the disappointment which this circumstance will cause you, by describing the few changes which have taken place wince I wrote last.<br />
<br />
White is still in universal estimation, our promenade dresses are composed of nothing else. A cambric muslin pelisse made tight to the shape, very short in the waist, and rather scanty in the skirt, is considered the most fashionable dishabille: it wraps over very much, and fastens down the front by straps; it is cut what you would call half high, and has a pelerine of a moderate size. Plain long sleeve, rounded at the bottom, and finished by small tucks. Half sleeve, short and very full. I have not seen any thing for a considerable time so elegantly plain, or so well calculated for morning walking dress, as this pelisse.<br />
<br />
Muslin round dresses and pelerines are also in considerable estimation for the promenade. Some merveilleuses, or as you would style them, dashers, have appeared in muslin trowsers. Lest you should be shocked at their indelicacy, I must observe, that very little more than the rich lace which trimmed them round the bottom was visible, and that very few ladies have conformed to this fashion.<br />
<br />
Jaconot, book, and cambric muslin are all worn for the dresses I have just mentioned. The gown is finished round the bottom of the skirt by a double flounce of very rich pointed work, which is surmounted by a rouleau of clear muslin, over which is placed a flounce headed by a second rouleau to correspond. The body is cut extremely low all round the bust, which is ornamented by a rouleau and flounce to correspond with the bottom. The ruff, in which the throat is completely enveloped, also corresponds. The pelerine, of a plain round shape, falls something lower than the waist; it has no collar, but a ribbon run through it, fastens it round the neck, with a bow in front. The embroidery of these pelerines is in general of a considerable depth and great richness.<br />
<br />
This dress is in high favour without the pelerine for dinner costume, and is the only novelty that I have to announce to you. The mania which our fashionables had for tucks is now transferred from their own dresses to that of their children, whose frocks and trowsers are covered with them. Bouillons are as much the rage as ever, one sees from four to six rows of them at the bottoms of dresses. Flounces are also much worn, and the fertile invention of the marchandes des modes has given an air of novelty even to them. Sometimes the bottom of a dress is ornamented with three or four, which are very deep, very richly embroidered, and drawn up in festoons. Sometimes there are as many as six flounces, which are set on at a distance from each other; these flounces, which are very narrow, are carefully small-plaited, and the space between them is filled either by a fulness of clear muslin, a letting-in of lace, or a rich embroidery. This last is considered more fashionable than either of the others.<br />
<br />
One of our most fashionable corsets is I find of English invention, I mean the corset des Graces: it is much admired here, and is certainly the easiest and pleasantest stay I ever wore. It is also extremely advantageous to the figure, and as the French ladies pride themselves exceedingly on the elegance of their shapes, they give it on that account a decided preference.<br />
<br />
I have little to say of full dress, for which crape and tulle are at present most fashionable: the latter is, however, adopted only for ball dresses, or by very youthful belles. There is no alteration in the form of full dress since I wrote last; but I think there is more variety in trimmings. Blond is high in estimation; there are sometimes as many as four rows set on very full round the bottom of a dress, and the bosom is finished by a pelerine to correspond.<br />
<br />
A more fashionable and much more novel style of trimming is a double or triple flounce of blond festooned, and each festoon fastened by a single flower or a small sprig of myrtle. A great many elegantes sport bouillons of tulle, which are divided by white satin tucks: and embroidery is also very fashionable; it consists chiefly of small bouquets of roses and myrtle in chenille, which being much raised, has a rich and natural effect.<br />
<br />
The mention of embroidery reminds me, that I have not yet told you what flowers are most fashionable; and never were the treasures of Flora in such request among belles of taste as at present. Beside fancy flowers, of which lilac roses surrounded with leaves are most fashionable, the blossom of the sweet-pea, larkspur, honeysuckle, geranium, blue-bells, gilly-flower, tulips, pinks, narcissus, roses, and poppies, are all worn either for bouquets, hats or ornaments for the hair. For the last purpose, full branches of roses intermingled with wheat-ears are in very high estimation, as are garlands of the other flowers which I have mentioned, placed at the back of the head.<br />
<br />
The present style of hair-dressing is very unbecoming. I mentioned I believe in my last, that it was worn in loose curls on the forehead; it was then divided a little in front, and of a moderate fulness: it is now curled so as to entirely conceal the forehead, and the hind hair, which is strained back, and fastened up in a large loose tuft, displays the skin of the head.<br />
<br />
The hair in half dress is much more becomingly arranged. A few loose light curls shade without concealing the forehead; part of the hind hair is disposed in a tuft, and the remainder, divided into two or three bands, is twisted round the head.<br />
<br />
I must not forget to mention, that, besides the bonnets which Miss S. will show you, capotes of gros de Naples, and gauze, tulle, and satin chapeaus, are in favour for the promenade. The capotes resemble those of Miss S. but the chapeaus are formed in a different way: they turn up almost entirely in front; the brim is of a moderate size, and of a peculairly jauntee shape. They have frequently no other ornament than a rich lace, white silk, or tulle handkerchief, of a moderate size, doubled and pinned across the crown, so that the ends fall behind. These handkerchiefs, when in silk, are sometimes embroidered at the corners. Other chapeaus have a very narrow round brim, finished at the edge, and also round the crown, by a plaiting of tulle, and ornamented either with a bunch of flowers, or three down feathers placed upright in front of the hat.<br />
<br />
White crape, gauze, satin, and tulle are all in favour for toques. Very little alteration has taken place in the form of these head-dresses since I wrote last; they are something higher than they were then, and wider round the top of the crown. Flowers are the favourite ornament for toques, except for court, for which they are generally adorned with feathers and precious stones.<br />
<br />
I shall send you in my next a description of a singularly pretty ball-dress, which would suit your sylph-like figure to a miracle; and also some cornettes, which I imagine will be very tasteful, as they are the invention of one of our most distinguished elegantes. Adieu, my dear Sophia! Believe me always your attached<br />
<br />
Eudocia.<br />
<br />
With my usual heedlessness, I forgot to enumerate the fashionable colours for the month. They are, pearl-grey, canary-yellow, peach-blossom, amaranth, azure, and rose.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-59371182040734100322012-11-06T18:00:00.001-05:002012-11-06T18:00:04.918-05:00Regency Era Fashion Plate - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Plate - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
London Fashions<br />
<br />
Walking Dress<br />
A jaconot muslin round dress; the bottom of the skirt trimmed with five rows of embroidery, in a running pattern of leaves. The body is full; it is cut low round the bust, and the fulness is gathered in there and at the bottom of the waist by a narrow band of muslin. Plain long sleeve, almost tight to the arm, and finished at the wrist with work. The fichu worn with this dress comes up very high on the shoulders, and partially displays the neck; a pink and white net silk handkerchief is fastened in a large bow and long ends before. Head-dress a bonet composed of white satin, and lined with the same material: the brim, which is very large, turns up entirely in front; the edge is ornamented with intermingled rolls of pink and white satin. The crown is also adorned with rolls of pink satin, displayed in a very novel and tasteful style; it fastens under the chin with a knot of pink satin at the left side, and is finished by a rich plume of down feathers. Blue kid sandals, and white kid gloves.</span><script type="text/javascript">
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</script><span lang="EN">Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
General Observations on Fashion and Dress<br />
<br />
Satin and fancy silk spencers still continue to be much worn for the promenade, but muslin pelisses are considered more fashionable. When worn for dishabille, they are composed of cambric muslin, and trimmed with work. The one which we are about to describe is the most elegant that we have seen.<br />
<br />
The body and skirt of the pelisse are in one: the latter, made without gores, is of a moderate fulness; the former is full in the back, with six small plaits on each side. The fronts are alternately gaged and small-plaited; the gagings are about an inch in breadth, and the plaitings three in number. Long sleeve of an easy fulness, except at the wrist, which is nearly tigt to the arm, being plaited and gaged to correspond with the body. A small collar, rounded in the style of a pelerine, falls back so as partially to display the throat. The trimming consists of that rich embroidery which we mentioned as being fashionable a considerable time back; it became unfashionable soon afterwards, but is now again in considerable estimation: there are three falls. As the appearance of this trimming resembles, at a distance, point lace, the effect is very rich, though somewhat heavy.<br />
<br />
As the French style of head-dress continues to be adopted by a considerable number of distinguished elegantes, we have presented our subscribers with a selection of the most fashionable bonnets. Those of cambric muslin, which the French call capotes, are adopted as morning bonnets by many ladies remarkable for their elegant taste in dress. They are certainly very gentlewomanly, and extremely appropriate to the season.<br />
<br />
For carriage or elegant promenade dress, nothing is considered so tasteful as clear muslin pelisses, lined with slight sarsnet, and trimmed with lace. A trimming of muslin bouillons, interspersed with small rosettes of satin ribbon, the same colour as the linings, and finished by a deep flounce of lace, is very novel, and is also considered highly fashionable. We noticed a pelerine cape the other day on one of these pelisses, of a novel shape and very pretty; it was crossed behind something like a handkerchief, and had two long ends in front, which were sloped so as to fall back very much. This pelerine, which was formed entirely of letting-in lace, and edged with rich pointed lace, had an uncommonly elegant effect. The delicate pink of the wild rose is a very favourite colour for linings; green, peach-blossom, and evening primrose, are also in considerable estimation.<br />
<br />
Half-dress lace caps are much in favour in the carriage costume. They are generally mobs, with the crowns a la Francoise; but they are neither outre nor unbecoming. Flowers form the prevalent ornament: satin and ribbon, the former in rosettes, the latter in large bows, are, however, partially adopted by some very tasteful belles.<br />
<br />
Since writing the above, we have seen several elegant gauze caps, which, as well as gauze fichus trimmed with tulle, have been lately introduced by a lady, not less remarkable for her rank than for the benevolence which adds lustre to it. The cornettes are trimmed either with tulle or British blond; and if they become as general as they are expected to be, it will be of infinite service to that branch of our manufactures.<br />
<br />
Muslin is the only thing which has been worn for some time past in the morning costume. Tucks are, at last, beginning to decline in favour, though they are stll worn by some elegantes. The most fashionable dishabille is the Gloucester morning dress, composed of fine jaconot muslin; the bottom of the skirt is finished by a piece of clear muslin let in full, and formed into waves by ribbon drawn through it: this trimming is surmounted by a rich flounce of work, and another finishes it at the bottom. The body is loose, and drawn in to the shape by two rows of ribbon, which come no farther than the bottom of the back, which is ornamented by rosettes of the same coloured ribbon. A very narrow wave of muslin, to correspond with the skirt, goes round the bust, and is finished by a fall of work. Long sleeve, ornamented at the wrist, to correspond. This morning dress, which is in considerable request in the highest circles, is the most tasteful and becoming dishabille that we have seen for a considerable time.<br />
<br />
Striped sarsnets, and those of light colours, are rather more in favour than they were last month for dinner dress, but muslin is more generally worn. Embroidery in coloured worsteds begins to be in some request in trimming. The most elegant, in our opinion, are wreaths of leaves in various shades of green: they are not, however, so general as borders of flowers. Dog-roses, violets, honeysuckles, and pea-blossom, are all in request.<br />
<br />
The Percy robe is still in great request for full dress, for which gauze and tulle continue to be most fashionable; but white sarsnet round dresses, richly embroidered in coloured silks round the bottom, are also much worn. The bodies of these dresses are trimmed with tulle, which is formed into the shape of shells by pink silk chord. Te sleeve is very short and full; it is also composed of tulle over white sarsnet: the tulle is laid on very full; it is interspersed with pink chord, and confined at bottom by a narrow border to correspond with the bottom of the dress.<br />
<br />
The hair in half dress continues to be worn very low at the sides, much parted on the forehead, and disposed in light ringlets.<br />
<br />
In full dress the hind hair is variously disposed. Some ladies have it brought to the left side, where it forms five or six tufts; others have one half of it twisted up behind in a large knot, while the remainder, disposed in three or four plaits, is brought round the head; and many arrange it in full bows, which are apparently confined by several bands of hair. The front hair is almost universally brought plain across the forehead, and disposed in loose curls at the sides of the face. This fashion, so becoming to the Grecian contour of countenance, is the very reverse to the round-faced belle, whom it absolutely disfigures: it is, nevertheless, almost universally adopted.<br />
<br />
Head-dresses for full dress continue the same as last month.<br />
<br />
Fashionable colours for the month are, peach-blossom, wild-rose colour, grass-green, straw-colour, blue, and lilac.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-89265381694813635322012-10-02T20:21:00.005-04:002012-10-02T20:21:59.282-04:00Regency Era Ladies' Headwear - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN">Regency Era Ladies' Headwear - August 1817 Ackerman's Repository<br />
<br />
The Most Fashionable Parisian Bonnets<br />
<br />
No 1. White straw bonnet, round crown, a moderate height; the brim is very deep. The trimming is paid ribbon, of which there is a large knot on the summit of the crown, and a bunch of fancy flowers placed on one side.<br />
<br />
No 2. A capote of cambric muslin, of a similar shape to the one just described; it is trimmed very elegantly with rich worked muslin. The brim is edged with two rows, set on rather full. The lower part of the crown is finished by vandykes of work, and the top is ornamented with a fulness of work before and behind. A full band of soft muslin ties it under the chin.<br />
<br />
No 3. A second capote of perkale, which is laid on in plaits. The crown very low. The brim a moderate breadth, but very wide. Both brim and crown are trimmed with a double row of pointed work. White sarsnet strings, fastened inside the bonnet, tie it under the chin.<br />
<br />
No 4. White straw bonnet, trimmed with a scarf of dark green silk, with a stripe of coquelicot in the border. This scarf is disposed in a very full rosette, and finished by long ends. A green and coquelicot striped ribbon ties this bonnet, the form of which resembles the one we first described, under the chin.<br />
<br />
No 5. A capote composed of striped muslin. The crown is oval and low; the front is deep, and comes down square at the sides. At the back of the crown is a piece of the same material set in very full, which quite shades the back of the neck; it is tied with soft white ribbon, and ornamented with a bunch of wild flowers.<br />
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No 6. A bonnet, composed of yellow crape, the crown of which is very low, and the front enormously large; it is trimmed round the brim with a fulness of yellow crape, ornamented with a bunch of yellow crape roses and a very large knot of yellow ribbons: it ties under the chin with ribbon to correspond.<br />
The small bunch of flowers consists of tulips, pinks, narcissus, and roses. The large bunch is composed of roses, narcissus, blue-bells, and poppies, all of which are at present in high estimation among the Parisian elegantes.</span><script type="text/javascript">
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Fashions for Ladies
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Plate 3 - Evening Dresses
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Erect Figure - A French frock, with demi-traine of black imperial gauze, worn over a slip of white sarsnet or satin; the bottom, bosom, and short sleeve ornamented with a vandyke border of white velvet or thread lace. A white celvet or satin hat, ornamented with two curled ostrich feathers, with a silver or beaded band. White kid gloves and shoes.
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Sitting Figure - An elegant Grecian robe of silver grey crape, worn over a white satin under-dress, ornamented at the feet and down each side of the figure with a light and tasteful border of black bugles. Stomacher of the same, edged with black beads, corresponding with those which finish the bosom and sleeves. Ear-rings, necklace, and bracelets of jet. Hair in waved curls on each side the face, divided in front of the forehead with a full plait, and ornamented with a barrel comb of jet. White satin slippers, with black jet clasps or bugle rosettes. White kid gloves, and fan of silver-frosted crape.
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Back-ground Figure - A robe of black Venetian velvet, with short Circassian sleeve; gathered in a knot of white beads or pearl; the bosom and stomacher to correspond. Pearl necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets. Belt of white velvet, with mother-of-pearl clasps. Convent veil of white cobweb net, confined in front with a pearl crescent, a la Diana. Sandal slippers of white kid. Gloves of the same, and fan of carved ivory.
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Plate 4 - A Walking Dress
A round high morning robe of cambric, with deep full-trimmed collar. A Swedish coat of lead-coloured cloth, or black velvet, trimmed entirely round with swansdown or blue fox fur. A Spanish pelerine of the same, fastened in front of the throat with a mother-of-pearl broach; clasps to correspond for the bottom of the waist. A traveller's hat of black or grey velvet, or cloth turned up on the left side with a shell ornament. Half-boots of grey cloth, laced and bound with black velvet. Chinese ridicule of grey or lead-coloured satin, embellished with black medallions and tassels. Gold chain and eye-glass.
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Regency Era Fashion Plates - May 1815 Ackerman's Repository<br />
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<span lang="EN">Fashions for Ladies</span><br />
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Walking Dress - High dress, made in cambric muslin, with deep full flounces richly worked on French cambric; a deep falling frill round the neck; to correspond. Pelisse, open, with falling collar, composed of green sarsnet, lined throughout with sarsnet of straw colour; the bottom of the sleeve trimmed with a double frill of the same; a double border of corresponding coloured trimming laid on the cuff and round the pelisse. Bonnet of straw-coloured satin, edge and trimmed with green satin ribbon, and ornamented either with a cluster of flowers or a small plume of feathers. Sandals of green kid; gloves to correspond. Parasol of straw-coloured silk.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN">Evening Dress - Pink satin frock, richly ornamented round the bottom with a deep border of garnet yewer, headed with a festoon of flowers; the body and sleeves trimmed with double rolls of white satin; a small border of flowers let in on the shoulder; a full plaiting of blond lace round the neck. Gloves white kid; shoes to correspond. The hair crossed, with full curls on the forehead and in the neck.</span>Sandyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08270266276774231778noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7421421026948654781.post-46494330633697443202012-08-03T22:23:00.001-04:002012-08-03T22:23:54.256-04:00Regency Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1809 Ackerman's RepositoryRegency Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1809 Ackerman's Repository
Fashions for Ladies and Gentlemen
General Observations
The Gothic taste, which the introduction of the Spanish costume seemed likely to revive, has now completely given place to the simple and more elegant forms of Grecian antiquity. The long waist, that merciless destroyer of everything that is beautiful, must be no more known or thought of. The wasp-like division of the human form, which this monstrous fashion produces, is perfectly irreconcilable with antique simplicity.
Shawls are much worn; they are admirably adapted to the promenade, as they afford, in the throw and arrangement, such fine opportunities for the display of the wearer's taste.
Silk head-dresses, a l'antique, with short veils, are most in request for the promenade; straw hats and bonnets are worn, but not so generally.
To Mr. Thomas Hope's recent publication on Ancient Costume, is the late change in dress principally to be attributed: - indeed, to the exertions of this gentleman almost all our modern improvements in taste may be referred. It is hoped the publication alluded to will become the vade-mecum and toilet-companion of every lady distinguished in the circles of fashion.
I wish it were in my power to report any similar improvement in the adaption of colours to character and complexion. In this essential part of dress, confusion and inconsistency still prevail. It is not nusual to see a lady of a pallid hue render herself ghastly by placing red, pink, or livid lilac near her face; the fairest complexion is frequently disfigured by brown, green, or red; and the most lovely brunette rendered frightful by a dress of light blue or grey. These, and a thousand similar absurdities, constantly occur, and it is to these errors that I would now apply a corrective. Ambitious that the British fair should be as much superior to other nations, in the taste of their dress, as they are in the beauty of their persons, I wish it particularly to be understood, that, though in my character of Arbiter Elegantiarum, I might publish dogmas and compel obedience, yet I do not ask assent to the following observations, till my fair readers have taken the advice of their sage and sapient counsellor, looking-glass.
Few colours will look absolutely ill on a fair complexion, provided the cheeks be tinged with the rosy hue of health. There are, however, some which detract from its natural sweetness. Green and brown are of the latter class. Light blue, grey, and lilac, of the former. A small quantity of either of these colours, will be found to add to the fairest face, a charm inexpressible.
The brunette must regulate her dress by the contrary rule. She may roam at large through all the varieties of red, brown, yellow, green, and olive, provided they be kept of a dark or of a negative hue. No light colours, and few positive colours, can be admitted with impunity.
The sallow complexion will find advantage from a head-dress, handkerchief, ribbon, or border, of yellowish green or olive; and the pallid hue of sickness, in a fair complexion, will be considerably relieved by a ribbon of the most tender and delicate blue.
Scarlet and pea-green are completely inadmissible; or if the latter may ay any time be adopted, it must be only in the smallest quantity. A ribbon or a border is all that can be allowed.
We shall resume this subject on a future occasion.
Gentlemen's Fashions
Dark olive and bottle-green coats are still much worn, and the season has brought into requisition marcella waistcoats of all descriptions, colours, and patterns: buff, however, is the most prevalent. Nankeen drawers and gaiters are very general for morning dress.
It is now the haut ton to wear the collar of the coat very high behind, worked round to stand off, and cut very low in front.
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Regency Era Ladies Headwear - June 1809 Ackerman's Repository
Fashionable Head-Dresses
No 1 - Wimple, or hood of transparent gauze bordered with silver.
No 2 - Silver net dress cap lined with purple silk; silver cord and tassels.
No 3 - Yellow silk walking-bonnet, with straw flower.
No 4 - Promenade head-dress of lilac silk, with short lace veil.
No 5 - Dress hat of cerulean blue, bound with pearls and trimmed with silver; white feathers tipped with blue.
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Fashions for Ladies and Gentlemen
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Walking Dress
Standing Figure - A Venetian spencer of violet satin, or sarsenet, with a row of small round buttons embroidered in silver, with a pendant loop to each; continued at the neck with a silk cord or silver tassel. Beaver hat of the same colour, rather small, turned up in front, with a silver button and loop. Worked muslin dress and skirt, to show the feet and ankles. Black silk slippers and York tan gloves.
Sitting Figure - Muslin underdress, with full loose sleeves; a Tunic a l'antique of yellow crape, trimmed with broad lace round the bottom; yellow silk head-dress, with short veil. Purple mantle, lined with white. York tan gloves.
Child's Dress - Swedish coat of grey cloth or silk, clasped down the front with silver ornaments; short open sleeves. Hat of the same colour, turned up with silver loop.
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Promenade Dress
Spotted muslin under-dress, over which a light coat, bordered with cerulean blue. Blue silk head-dress, bound round with silver cords and tassels. Blue silk scarf, lined with white; silver border and tassels. White shoes edged with blue. York tan gloves.
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French Female Fashions
Our promenade dresses are now composed of perkale, and they are trimmed in general with jaconot muslin: the bottoms of gowns are trimmed extremely high, but there is little variety in the forms of trimming: some have a piece of muslin laid on full, the fulness divided into compartments, and confined to the skirt by narrow cords placed perpendicularly; others are ornamented by rouleaus of muslin, between which are placed rows of Spanish puffs; and the latest fashion is a number of very narrow flounces set on one above another: they are not disposed in festoons, nor large plaits, and have but very little fulness. I need not tell you, that this is an old fashion, which has been several times revived.
The bodies of gowns are made in a very showy style: they are always tight to the shape; some have a plain back, and the fronts are plaited in a bias direction across the bust; they button up the front: the bottom of the waist is finished by a row of rich work, set on full, and there is generally a girdle of embroidered ribbon. A plain long sleeve, nearly tight to the arm; at the bottom it has a band of ribbon, to correspond, across the wrist, and is finished with work, which falls over the hand: there is a half-sleeve, which is also disposed in bias plaits, and pretty full on the shoulders; this is confined by a band of ribbon to correspond, and is finished by a fall of work. Dresses made in this way are extremely fashionable, but they are much too formal to please me, and if the figure is not very faultless indeed, they are far from being becoming.
Spensers, pelisses, and even silk scarfs, are exploded; the only covering worn with high dresses is a pelerine, which never comes further than the shoulders, or a small scarf composed of crepou de Bareges: it is trimmed with knotted fringe, is very narrow, and is tied carelessly at the throat: ponceau is the favourite colour for these scarfs.
Gros de Naples, Leghorn, paille coton, gauze, and crape, are the materials generally used for hats. Those composed of gros de Naples are ornamented at the edge of the brim with a ruche of plain ribbon, or bouillons of gauze or crape. Leghorn hats are usually worn without trimming on the brim. Paille coton chapeaux have in general a narrow twisted roll of ribbon or gauze. Crape and gauze hats are usually made with a fulness of gauze disposed in folds or deep flutings over the brim, and this fulness is drawn in peaked puffs at the edge of it. White and yellow straw are also in fashion, though paille coton seems very likely to supersede the first: the latter is always of the finest kind, and of a bright gold colour, and its trimming corresponds.
The crowns of bonnets still continue to be worn very small; but the brims are extremely large, and so long that they mostly meet under the chin. Some elegantes have these long brims almost square, so that they only partially shade the face; others wear them round, and so deep that scarcely a feature is visible, because the brim is pulled very much over the face; and some few of our merveilleuses have revived the fashion of wearing large bonnets, placed very far back upon the head. Hats are now never seen in promenade dress, nor are feathers at all worn; ribbons and flowers, that is to say, a mixture of both, forming the fashionable trimming for bonnets.
Flowers are disposed with more moderation and taste than I ever recollect to have seen them before: our bouquets are of a moderate size, and either composed of one sort of flowers only, or else, if there is a mixture, it is one in which the eye is not offended by badly contrasted colours. Wreaths are as much in favour as bouquets, and they are always composed of one sort of flowers only. Roses and lilacs are most in favour; but laburnum, lilies, mignionette, fancy flowers, the blossoms of different kinds of fruit, corn-flowers, and also wheat-ears, are all worn.
Before I quit the promenade costume, I must mention to you two articles, which appear at present indispensable to it: the first is a sash, composed of either Egyptian or plaid ribbon; the Egyptian ribbon is always of two colours, the middle of one sort, and a little stripe at each edge of another; the favourite contrasts are, dark puce and apple-green, gold colour and white, pouceau and pale blue. These ribbons are worn excessively broad, some are six inches in width; they are tied on one side, near the front, in a bow and long ends. The other article is a short veil of transparent white gauze, which is generally drawn carelessly to one side. Nor must I forget our parasols: they are always of a dome shape, and are always of a dome shape, and are finished with a rich silk fringe. The Parisian elegante always chooses a parasol of the colour that will best suit her complexion: the fair beauty appears with one of lilac or azure; and the brown belle has one of rose-colour, purple, or white.
But you will begin to think, that I never mean to take you out of the promenade: in truth, home dress at present offers very little that is worthy of your attention. White dresses are as much worn at home as for the promenade; in fact, the morning promenade gown frequently forms the home dinner dress. I have already told you how these are in general made and trimmed, but I forgot to observe, that each of the narrow flounces which I mentioned, is generally finished with three small tucks at the edge.
Coloured muslins are also worn in home dress, though not so much as white: there have been some just introduced, the ground of which is either blue, rust colour, or lilac; they have broad borders round the bottom of the skirt, which are called buyadires; these borders are of a different colour: these dresses are sometimes finished by flounces, but in general they are ornamented only with the borders.
For social evening parties, clear muslin frocks are very much in favour: several are made partially high; they are trimmed with a profusion of lace round the bottom of the skirt; it is set on in flounces either plain or serpentined; ruches, composed of ribbons of different colours, are usually placed as headings to these flounces. The bodies are tight to the shape, and are let in all round the upper part of the bust with lace; and a row of very broad lace is usually set on behind, in such a manner as to form at once a pelerine and half-sleeves: the under-sleeve, if short, is very full; it is confined to the arm by a band of ribbon or satin, and is finished by a quilling of lace; if long, which is more generally the case, it is let in all the way down in front of the arm with puffs of joining lace, and finished at the wrist with two, or perhaps three, rows of lace.
Gauze still continues fashionable for full dress, and tulle over white satin is also much in favour. Crape, which has for some time been exploded, appears to be coming again into fashion. No material change has occurred in grand costume since my last.
Fashionable colours are lilac, mignionette, rose-colour, straw-colour, and blue; but white is most in request.
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General Observations on Fashion and Dress
The uncommon fineness of the weather has induced our elegantes to adopt the light attire of summer at an earlier period than usual. We see, however, with pleasure, that silks of various descriptions are still in great favour both for promenade and home dress.
For the former, white dresses are now most fashionable, but they are worn with spencers or scarfs. One of the neatest morning walking dresses that we have seen, is a round dress composed of thick jaconot muslin: the bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a broad piece of muslin drawn with cords, which are placed in a bias direction; this is finished with a full flounce of work at the bottom, and is ornamented at the top with a row of cotton tufts, one of which is affixed to each of the drawings. The back is full, and is ornamented at each side with a narrow serpentine of cord, which ends in a full tuft at the bottom of the waist: the front is braided in a serpentine direction with very narrow cord, which is interspersed with a number of little tufts. High standing collar, also braided and tufted to correspond. Long loose sleeve, surmounted by a small epaulette, something in the shape of a wing; it is made to stand out from the shoulder by three drawings of cord: the long sleeve is confined at the bottom by drawings of cord to correspond. This is a neat and simple dress; it is very appropriate to the season, and forms also a pretty dishabille.
Spencers continue in very great favour, but we do not observe any peculiar novelty in their make. Gros de Naples is the most fashionable material; but satin is also in request, as are fancy silks. Pelisses are still fashionable: in fact, we are surprised, considering the warmth of the weather, to see them so much worn, especially as they are in general composed of very stout silk.
Leghorn bonnets are most in favour for the promenade. Though several shapes have been introduced since the commencement of the spring, there is none so generally adopted as the one we used to style the large French bonnet: they continue to be trimmed as we described last month.
The principal alteration in carriage dress since last month, consists in the introduction of pelisses composed either of white figured British net, or very fine worked muslin over satin; they are made with a full body, and very loose sleeves, which fall a good deal over the hand: some are trimmed all round with very broad rich lace, set on full; others have a fulness of the same material as the pelisse, which is disposed in bias flutings, and is finished at each edge either by a rouleau of satin, or a row of narrow lace, which is in general pointed. These pelisses are always lined with slight sarsnet, of a light colour. Pale blush-colour, pale lavender, lemon-colour, apple-blossom, and peach-blossom, are the favourite colours this month.
The materials for carriage bonnets continue the same as last month. We have observed a few bonnets with satin or gros de Naples crowns, and transparent brims: the brims are composed either of gauze or net. Flowers are now the only ornaments for carriage bonnets; they are worn in general in bouquets, as wreaths do not seem to be at all in favour.
The most elegant carriage or dress promenade bonnet which we have seen for some time, has just been introduced by the lady to whom we are indebted for our dresses this month: it is composed of white figured gros de Naples; the crown is very low; it is ornamented en marmotte, as the French style it, with the same material edged with blond; the brim is extremely deep in front, but is short at the ears, and is rounded off in a way that we conceive must be generally becoming: a row of broad blond is set on round the edge of the brim; one part of the blond falls over the edge; the remainder, by a second tacking at some distance from the first, forms a headind: a bouquet of roses is placed to one side.
Muslin continues to be the only material adopted in morning dress: jaconot is most fashionable, but cambric muslin is considered genteel: the latter is usually trimmed with French work. Robes are still much worn, but we think that round dresses rather predominate.
Dinner dress continues much the same as last month.
The full dress which we have given in our print is deservedly the first in estimation. We observe, that for social evening parties clear muslin is much worn; the favourite form is a frock: the body is generally richly let in with lace, and the trimming of the skirt is composed of satin, lace, or ribbon: it is often formed of a mixture of the two last; as for instance, a deep lace flounce is headed by a corkscrew roll of ribbon, and that is surmounted by a wave, which is also formed of a corkscrew roll of ribbon, or else by a fulness of muslin fancifully interspersed with bows of ribbon.
For grand parties the hair is now generally ornamented with jewels, or a mixture of flowers and jewels; but we observe that feathers are very little worn. Turbans have increased a little in favour; toques continue to be very fashionable, but dress caps are not at all in request.
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London Fashions
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Morning Dress
A round dress of thick haconot muslin: the bottom of the skirt is richly worked in points; they are surmounted by a broad casing, which is drawn by blue ribbon; several rows of cord are placed above this easing. Chemisette body; the waist is longer than usual: the collar is of a new description; it is composed of muslin laid on full over ribbon, and edged all round with rich work. Long sleeve, tastefully ornamented at the wrist, to correspond.
The apron worn with this dress is composed of the same material; it is rather more than a three-quarter length, and is trimmed round with rich work. A brace is attached to the back part of this apron, which forms at once an epaulette and a low back to the dress: it is advantageous to the shape, and has a very tasteful effect; it is composed entirely of rich work. Head-dress, a cornette, or rather we should say a half cornette, composed of white lace: it is of a moderate height, and has very small ears, which do not meet under the chin, where it is tied with blue ribbon; it is ornamented only with a simple bow of ribbon to correspond, which is palced on one side of the caul. Blue kid shoes.
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Evening Dress
A round dress, composed of white transparent gauze, over a white satin slip: the bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a deep flounce of rich blond, formed into draperies by white satin bows; a large star, composed of white satin disposed in folds, is placed between each wave of the drapery. This is a simple but elegant style of trimming; its effect is extremely light and tasteful. The body is plain, tight to the shape, and rather long in the waist; it is cut low all round the bust, and is trimmed with a full fall of lace, which forms a pelerine behind. Short sleeve, ornamented in a new style, with lace twined in a serpentine manner round the bottom part. Head-dress, a garland of intermingled moss-roses and lilies. The hair is dresses rather high, and with a profusion of full curls in front. Necklace and ear-rings, pearl. White satin shoes; white kid gloves.
We are indebted to Miss Pierpoint of No. 9, Henrietta-street, Covent-Garden, for both our dresses this month.
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Fashions for Ladies
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Morning or Domestic Costume
A superfine Scotch or French cambric over a cambric slip, with full long sleeve, and ruff a la Mary Queen of Scots. A neck-chain and sight set in gold; bracelets and necklace of white or red cornelian. A Flora cap, composed of white satin and lace. A capuchin or French cloak of blossom satin, or Pomona green, trimmed with thread lace. Slippers of pale pink or green kid; and gloves of tan or Limerick kid.
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Ball Dress
A round Circassian robe of pink crape, or gossamer net, over a white satin slip, fringed full at the feet; a peasant's bodice of pink satin or velvet, laced in front with silver, and decorated with the same ornament. Spanish slash sleeve, embellished with white crape foldings, and finished at its terminations with bands of silver. A Spartan or Calypso helmet cap of pink frosted crape, with silver bandeaus, and embellished with tassels, and rosets to correspond. A rich neck-chain and ear-rings of Oriental gold. Fan of carved ivory. Slippers of pink kid, with correspondent clasps; and gloves of white kid: an occasional square veil of Mechlin lace.
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General Observations<br />
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Nacaratt royal purple and gold are the most prevailing colours for pelisses and mantles, which are made of various materials, cloth, velvet, brocade, sarsenet, and satin, according to the fancy of the wearer. Head ornaments - Spanish hats, and caps decorated with feathers, flowers, pearls, or diamonds, according as the occasion requires. Morning dress, cloth, sarsenet, Brussels spotted muslin, trimmed with embroidery. Evening dress, satin, velvet, brocade, sarsenet, with gold or silver ornaments, and trimmings.<br />
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It is almost unnecessary to add, that the design and description of the ladies' fashions in this month, are under the direction of Madame Lanchester, whose taste in the department of ladies' dress and female ornaments, is so well known as to render any eulogium unnecessary.<br />
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Fashions for Gentlemen<br />
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The prevailing colours are dark brown and bottle green. The coat for evening dress is cut rather long in the waist, and short in the skirts, double breasted, with pointed lappels, corresponding in length to the hip button; the lappels are padded to fall back with the collar, which is made pretty high and stitched narrow, the collar to fall back about an inch and half; deep pockets under the cross flaps; the cuffs round.<br />
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The morning dress is made in nearly the same manner, only the pockets are in the plaits of the skirt, and the cuffs are either round or with a flap and three buttons.<br />
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The buttons are either gilt basket, or moulds covered with cloth.<br />
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Waistcoats are made single breasted, with a small flap about two inches lower than the coat lappel. Breeches are not made so high by two or three inches as they were, and the knee-band extends almost to the calf of the leg, with four buttons at the knee; they are made very tight; and pantaloons are pretty generally ornamented up the sides with brade.<br />
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Fashions for Ladies and Gentlemen<br />
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Plate 1 - Walking Dress<br />
A Polish bonnet, and mantle of gold-coloured velvet, with an invisible hood trimmed with ermine: an antique collar fastened with a gold ornament in front, in form of a shell. Morning dress, white muslin Brussels spot, with a worked stomacher, and trimmed down the front and at the bottom; worked along hanging sleeves, twisted and fastened at the wristband with a small gold ornament, of the same form as that which fastens the mantle and cincture of the dress; sandals of gold-colored cloth, laced with brown cords and tassels; York tan gloves.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM2HdWDOQwDPMUCXfCAByeuih4YysR-YNpGu3_8Tc3o1-m3S31eox00n_mPPXiI7U3nK0_O_ux5X_Lgm2as-ClQ91dCcxISiG52RYtMBlNnX-s2rQ2Scl-TjbRa8R8KS_2ufs1i6fIAPo/s1600/1809-01+ackermans+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:left; float:left;margin-right:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="400" width="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM2HdWDOQwDPMUCXfCAByeuih4YysR-YNpGu3_8Tc3o1-m3S31eox00n_mPPXiI7U3nK0_O_ux5X_Lgm2as-ClQ91dCcxISiG52RYtMBlNnX-s2rQ2Scl-TjbRa8R8KS_2ufs1i6fIAPo/s400/1809-01+ackermans+2.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Plate 2 - Evening Full Dress<br />
A white satin Spanish hat, with a diamond loop and Spanish plume; diamong ear-rings and necklace; the hair full, in ringlets; a white satin dress, full-trimmed with blue velvet, with a lace medicis round the back and shoulders; an antique stomacher ornamented with diamonds mounted in gold; white satin shoes with gold bows; white gloves and fan.<br />
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<br />
General Observations on Fashions and Dress<br />
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The stagnation that prevailed for several weeks in the motley regions of Fashion's extensive empire, showed that we were, in a great measure, prepared for an event which was almost to be desired by the friends of the Royal sufferer, as a sure relief from the anguish she endured, and the certain conviction that virtue meets its reward in heaven, and which reflection makes us submit with resignation to its unerring will. <br />
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Fashion is the power which is generally arrayed in the varied robe of Iris, and to whom is consecrated - <br />
-----"the dimpled smiles,<br />
"Such as glow on Hebe's cheek."<br />
Health and youth light their torches at her fane, and the solemn pomp of woe suits not with her varied votaries. Yet, as is presaging this dire event, never, even in the ancient courts of Spain and Portugal, was black so prevalent as it has been for this last fortnight, both for the evening costume and for the promenade. Black satin and black velvet spensers have become almost universal among the higher classes for the morning walk.<br />
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Among the bonnets, on the present mournful occasion, we have been favoured with the sight of one made by Mrs. Bell for a lady of high rank: it is of transparent black crape, very large, and ornamented at the edge by a full cheveaux de-frize trimming: a superb cluster of the blossom called honesty, is laid in a kind of studied negligence between the crown and the brim; emblematic of the honest grief of a British bosom for the consort of him they still revere; while they bless for ever the generous heir apparent who, possessed of all the dear affections of nature, has shewn such unremitting and dutiful attention to his late venerable mother. A black velvet college cap, with a plume of cypress feathers, is in high favour; and a large black satin bonnet for mornig walks, trimmed with folds of crape, is much in requisition.<br />
<br />
A new Scottish toque is much worn for paying morning visits, or for friendly dinner partes; it is composed of crape and black satin, with laurel leaves affixed on the left side, of the same materials. A dress cornette is, however, more prevalent on the above occasions. It is formed of white crape, and ornamented in front with a full half wreath of black crape flowers: the crown terminates loosely behind, and is formed of black crape: there is a taste and fancy in this head-dress which confer high honour on the invention of Mrs. Bell. An evening toque of black velvet, trimmed with rows of jet, dividing the crown from the head-piece, is also another specimen of her unrivalled powers in the article of taste.<br />
<br />
The bonnets are still worn very large; cypress feathers are more worn than we expected. Opera cloaks of dark grey, lined with black, are in favour at present for the general mourning, but we prophecy that they will become too common to be adopted by the higher classes, by whom they are seldom worn, except at entering the Theatres, or in the early spring and late autumnal season, in an open carriage.<br />
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N.B. Our Cabinet of Taste is unavoidably closed at present: every European court will, no doubt, adopt the "sable garb of woe" for Britain's virtuous Queen.<br />
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Court and General Mourning<br />
<br />
The following orders of the Lord Chamberlain and the Deputy Earl Marshal, respecting the Court and General Mourning, were published in a Supplement to the London Gazette of Tuesday the 17th of November: --<br />
<br />
"Lord Chamberlain's Office, Nov. 19.<br />
"Orders for the Court's going into mourning on Sunday next, the 22nd inst. for her late Majesty the Queen, of blessed Memory, viz.<br />
"The ladies to wear black bombazines, plain muslin or long lawn lines, crape hoods, chamois shoes and gloves, and crape fans.<br />
"Undress - Dark Norwich crape.<br />
"The gentlemen to wear black cloth, without buttons on the sleeves and pockets, plain muslin or long lawn cravats and weepers, chamois shoes and gloves, crape hatbands, and black swords and buckles.<br />
"Undress - Dark grey frocks."<br />
<br />
The Deputy Earl Marshal's Order for a General Mourning.<br />
"Herald's College, Nov. 19.<br />
"In pursuance of the commands of his Royal Highness the Prince Regent, acting in the name and on the behalf of his Majesty, these are to give public notice, that upon the present melancholy occasion of the death of her late Majesty, of blessed memory, all persons do put themselves into deep mourning.<br />
"H.H. Molymeux-Howard,<br />
Deputy Earl Marshal."<br />
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